YOUR LAWN

OVER SEEDING: There are two optimum times of the year to seed, mid April until the end of
May and the third week in August to the end of September, with the second seeding window
being the best. At Durham Lawn Jockey we use ECO LAWN the premium grass seed when we
do this application to help convert your lawn to a lower maintenance lawn that saves you time and
money. In fact after five years with this product, besides the money you`ll save with less watering
and cutting, you won`t need us either. You won`t need any lawn company!

CORE AERATION: This application has many benefits- creates a stronger root system,
breaks up thatch layers, allows more moisture and oxygen into the soil, helps keep grub
populations to a minimum. Although we also provide spring aerations, we recommend this
application be done in conjunction with a September over-seeding.

LIME TREATMENT: This application helps restore the PH level of acidic lawns to a normal
standard between 6.0 and 7.0 . It is an application that acts as a booster drink for your lawn
helping with moss, mushrooms and canine urine. It is recommended that this treatment be done
once every three years or as needed.

WEEDS: With as many as 150 seeds ready to germinate throughout the entire season for every
square foot of soil, the potential for weeds is tremendous. In fact, in the top six inches of the
topsoil, over 1,000 square feet, there may be as many as 3,000 viable weed seeds. These seeds
remain viable for many years. Weeds are opportunistic plants. They compete with preferred
plants for space, water, nutrients and sunlight. Just a slight weakness in the turf can allow a weed
seed to germinate and become established. Cultural practices that help maintain health and
vigour of the grass should end concern for weeds. Promoting a healthy lawn is the best defence
against severe weed problems. Proper mowing and watering, regular fertilization, core cultivation,
and annual over-seeding are the key ingredients in maintaining a healthy lawn.

At Durham Lawn Jockey we use Bio and Eco control methods when dealing with weeds. For
more severe weed problems, programs with Turf Maize Pro Organic weed control is
recommended.

CRABGRASS is an annual weed that invades home lawns and gardens. Crabgrass usually
establishes itself in mid to late spring. Crabgrass plants produce finger-like, purple seed heads
when mature. Seeds are produced over winter in the soil and germinate the following spring.
Crabgrass normally invades lawns that are thin, weak and undernourished. Lawns that are
properly fertilized, watered and mowed correctly are less susceptible to crabgrass infestations.
Infestations usually begin along driveway edges, in boulevards and other high traffic and/or high
temperature areas. Crabgrass will not germinate in heavily shaded areas. CONTROL:
Pre-Emergent: When there is evidence of recurring historical crabgrass problems. Control is best
implemented in spring, prior to or soon after the germination and establishment of crabgrass
plants.

Durham Lawn Jockey uses Turf Maize Pro Crabgrass pre-emergent. If you have a history of
crabgrass it is recommended you chose a program with this application.

CUTTING: Your lawn should be kept at 2½ to 3 inches (6-8 cm) long.
Mowing height should be increased during the hot, dry summer. In most
areas the grass will grow more quickly in the spring and fall and require
more frequent mowing. Calculate mower blade heights by measuring the
distance between the ground and the base of your lawn mower.

The lawn should be mowed frequently so that only a small clipping is
taken from the grass plant. Never remove more than a third of the total
grass blade. Removing too much of the blade length at one time stresses
the grass and weakens your lawn. Because the system of a grass plant
grows proportionately to the above ground parts of the plant, a longer
cutting height results in a stronger, deeper root system.

Lawn mower blades should be kept razor sharp. A sharp blade makes a clean precise cut of each
grass blade. A sharp clean cut will seal quickly and resist disease attack. A dull blade chews and
frays grass blades resulting in a gray appearance and greater vulnerability of turf to diseases.

The mowing direction should be altered for each mowing. This procedure will keep the grass
growing strong and straight while reducing weed grass infestation.
Grass clippings should be left on the lawn when mowing. "Grass-cycling" is natural and an
environmentally beneficial practice. Grass clippings are about 90 percent water by weight.
Because they are high in protein they should be left on the lawn to decompose and return vital
nutrients back to the soil. The average lawn produces clippings at a rate of about 200 pounds per
square foot each year. For every 100 m² of lawn, consistent grass-cycling done for the entire
season returns one ton of nutritious clippings to the soil; which reduces waste and conserves
landfill space. The use of a mulching type mower is ideal for grass-cycling as it results in a more
uniform distribution of grass clippings, and allows for quicker decomposition.

It is only necessary to remove lawn clippings if they are long and will smother the lawn.

WATERING: Your lawn needs 1 to 1-1/2" (3-4cm) of water weekly.

Under normal circumstances, early morning is the best time to water your
lawn so that the leaves can dry slowly and naturally without too much
evaporation, and instead with most of the water penetrating the soil. If you
water at mid-day in hot weather, much of the water evaporates quickly.
Evening watering can promote the spread of lawn grass diseases.
Regular, fairly deep watering is better than daily light sprinklings.
Deep watering and allowing the lawn to dry out between watering will
force the roots to penetrate deeper in search of moisture. On the other
hand, excessively heavy watering is wasteful and can promote lawn
diseases. Again, 1 to 1-1/2" (3-4cm) of water weekly.

CHINCH BUGS: live above the soil and feed on living grass plants. If you peer between the
grass blades, you may be able to see the tiny Chinch Bugs scurry. They have reddish bodies in
their younger stages. The tiny young mature into black and white coloured adults. Chinch Bugs
pierce the grass blade stem or crown, inject digestive juices, then suck out the plants liquids.
Damage looks similar to drought symptoms, but of course, watering does not remedy the
problem.

Chinch Bugs attack during the mid-summer heat and can cause serious damage in a few days
and devastate an entire lawn in a few weeks.

Durham Lawn Jockey uses Eco-friendly methods for the control of Chinch Bugs and other
surface insects including the establishment of ECO LAWN; a thinner fescue Chinch Bugs don't
like.

LEATHERJACKETS: Due to their leathery gray-brown skin, the damaging larvae are most
commonly referred to as "Leatherjackets". The adult crane fly resembles a giant mosquito and
appears in later summer in great numbers. The female can lay up to 280 shiny, black eggs in the
grass or soil. The eggs hatch within two weeks and the larvae begin feeding. They feed at the soil
level on roots and seedlings almost continuously; growing from 3mm to 3.2cm (3/16" to 1-1/4")
between August and late May. During the colder periods of the winter, they burrow deeper into
the soil where they are better able to survive frost and flooding. As the temperatures moderate in
the spring, they will ascend to just below the soil surface and resume feeding.
Leatherjackets feed during the day at or below the surface of the turf on root hairs, roots and
crowns. Damage to lawns first appears as brown patches that soon become bare if infestations are
heavy.

Durham Lawn Jockey uses Nematodes specially bred to deal with Leatherjackets and pierce
their shell.

WHITE GRUBS: White grubs can devastate your lawn. White grubs (European chafer, May
and June beetles) are small, plump, white larvae which actively feed on grass roots. They live
below the soil surface and actually chew off the roots of the grass. They are C-shaped, have a
brown head and three large pair of legs.

After they destroy the grass roots, the lawn will appear unhealthy, weak or possibly yellow in
patches, as if the lawn is drying out. Other symptoms to watch for include: animals like skunks
and raccoons digging up the lawn and birds feeding on grubs, leaving pencil sized holes. Often
the damaged turf will roll back like a carpet.

Durham Lawn Jockey uses environmentally friendly methods such as Core Aeration, Spring and
Fall Nemitode applications, and the establishment of ECO LAWN which make the grass less
vulnerable to grub damage.